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Insert the tip of a level pry bar behind the trim around the door. There are three pieces. Pop them off to uncover a hole between the pillar and the divider encircling at the top and on the two sides. Haul out any nails utilizing askew forceps. Put the trim side to utilize later. Tap out the entirety of the wooden shims at irregular interims around the edge of the door between the pillar and the stud confining. Utilize a mallet and the tip of a screwdriver to drive out the shims. Gather them to utilize when you introduce the new door.
Addition the edge of a responding saw between the pillar and the stud encircling. Turn it on and slide it around the two sides and at the top to cut any nails that are holding the support to the confining. Haul the door and doorjamb out of the opening.
Stand the substitution door and doorjamb unit inside the opening. Spot a level on the two sides to help get it vertically straight in the opening. Tap one of the cedar shims that you evacuated before (or utilize new shims) on the two sides to verify it inside the opening. Start tapping in shims on the two sides and at the top. Substitute tapping in wedges from side to side with the goal that the hole on the two sides continue as before.
Open and close the door a couple of times. On the off chance that the door sticks in the pillar, evacuate or include shims either side until the door closes and closes easily.
Shoot 2 1/2-inch finish nails through the doorjamb into the stud surrounding at the top and base. Space them each 8 inches. Shoot the nails as near the doorstop as would be prudent. The doorstop is an inclined bit of wood that stops the door on one side.
Spot the trim back on the sides that you expelled it from. There will be a line on the paint to show where to put it. Supplement 1/4-inch finish nails in the current nail openings in the trim and nail every one of the three pieces on with hammer. Drive the nail heads somewhat underneath the outside of the wood, utilizing the mallet and a nail set.
Fill the nail gaps with wood putty utilizing a putty blade on the off chance that you plan on completing or painting the door later. On the off chance that the door has been recently completed, utilize a putty colored pencil to fill the openings.
Things You Will Need
Prybar
Askew pincers
Sledge
Screwdriver
Responding saw
Prehung door
48-inch level
Cedar shims (discretionary)
Finish nailer
2 1/2-inch finish nails
1/4-inch finish nails
Nail set
Wood putty (discretionary)
Putty blade (discretionary)
Putty colored pencil (discretionary)
Tip
Some prehung units don't accompany stops appended. Utilize one that has them for best outcomes, yet on the off chance that yours doesn't, buy three bits of doorstop and nail them on yourself. Close the door first, and afterward nail them on the two sides and at the top. Utilize a current door for reference if necessary. In the event that you don't have a pneumatic nailer, you can utilize a mallet to nail the edge to the divider.